Pet Health Problems

Masamune

Jedi Council Member
Hi everyone I am asking a question in concern of my mother's animals. My parents have about 12 cats and 2 dogs and they all have health issues. Almost all of them are chubby and overweight and have various skin issues. My parents have fed them the cheap animal food that they sell at petsmart (with by-products, corn syrup, soy etc.) for most of their lives in order to save money but recently with their health problems they have started to feed them healthier food. I have always thought that it was the food causing their problems but giving them healthier food has not cleared up their problems.

My mother has researched all about the issue and one cat is really having problems. She is losing fur and has itchy scabs all over her body and just acts sick all the time. She has little appetite and when she eats she just vomits. My mother thinks it may be flea allergies or food allergies but she has been unable to figure it out. She has taken the cat to the vet and has gotten some medicine I think but she is still having issues. My parents do have a lot of fleas at their house.

Also my dog that lives at my parents house has these oozing eyes that just drip out all day. And he developed light patches around his eyes where fur would not grow. He was given some antibiotics and put on healthier food and he has gotten better but not completely.

I am wondering if anyone else has experienced these types of problems with their pets or if they know anything about these conditions. My cat that lives with me has never had any of these problems but I have always kept him on healthy food. I have been feeding him california natural food because that is the food that he likes and will eat but I have read on this forum that it contains "natural flavors" which may be MSG. What is a good type of food to feed cats and dogs? My mother has been trying all different types of healthy food to see what the animals will like and in general they do not like the healthy foods. :/

Thanks for any suggestions. :)
 
As for the particular symptoms you describe, I have no knowledge. However as to diet:

I feed my (8) cats a fresh raw diet based on information gleaned from books by Pitcairn and by Yarnall.

My oldest is 12 years old and my youngest is 5 years old. We have experienced very few health problems - A couple of the older cats have recently had some gum problems and required some tooth pulling. Other than that, the only problems we have had are occasional flea infestations (we live in a hot humid area) and one cat was injured several years ago. Of the cat that was injured, the veterinarian was impressed with how fast he healed.

The recipe below is for cats. I don't have any dogs and so I don't have a recipe for them. There is good information out there, though. In general, the meat ratio does not need to be as high for dogs as it is for cats. Cats are obligate carnivores and cannot produce their own taurine. The only natural source for taurine is raw meat. Cooking destroys taurine. Without taurine, cats go blind. So if you make your own cat food, please do not cook it!

Several years ago, a friend of mine came to visit. She had been a veterinary technician and when she saw some kittens I had, she was amazed at how clear their eyes and noses were. She had two dogs and went out and got the books. One of her dogs, a cocker spaniel, had undergone back surgery some years before. The dog was unable to jump up onto her couch. After having fed her dogs the doggy version of this diet for some weeks, her cocker spaniel became able to jump up onto the couch and gained more energy.

My recipe :
1 lb ground meat (turkey, chicken, or beef)
1 cup veggie grain mix *
1 Tablespoon bonemeal powder
1 Tablespoon "healthy powder" **
1 Tablespoon mostly olive oil with about 1/2 teaspoon cod liver oil and few drops vitamin E.

Ratio of meat to veggie grain varies on age/activity level of animal and also whether or not animal is pregnant.

* Veggie Grain mix - I cook up 2 cups of 10 grain cereal to 6 cups water and puree it with plenty of raw vegetables like green beans, carrots, celery, squash, etc. Even a bit of apple can be used. Then I freeze in 1 cup portions to be thawed and mixed with meat when making up a fresh batch.

** Healthy Powder - (based on recipe in Pitcairn's book) :
2 cups nutritional yeast
1 cup lecithin granules
1/4 cup kelp powder
1000 milligrams vitamin C

I understand that there is some new information out there that suggests giving raw meaty bones like chicken necks (not cooked as cooking causes bones to get brittle and can cause choking) but, since my cats go outside and hunt for themselves, I don't give them many bones.

I also occasionally get some catfish and chop it up for them and occasionally give them some canned mackerel.

I supplement this with a high quality dry cat food (our favorite is Precise brand as it's list of ingredients is impressive for the quality). This gives them something to "crunch".

Edit: forgot the vitamin E (see recipe) and that veggies should be raw or frozen. And that things can be added like raw pumpkin seeds (said to be good to get rid of worms) or garlic if your cats will eat it...
 
About 8 years ago I adopted border collie kelpie. She was 10 years (or over) old with some health issues. It was my first dog friend.
I didn't know anything about dog care. I used to cook for her rice with meats quite often, thinking that that's what dogs eat.
Her health was deteriorating. So I took her to local dog naturopath. After I told her how I feed my dog I could almost hear her saying to me: 'you idiot!'.
She than spend almost two hours explaining to me like to the child all about dogs, how they live in the nature, all the do's and dont's about them and their food.
I followed her advice since then (not to the letter - can be costly) and still have her around. She'll be 20 soon.

She than handed me paper with some tips how to feed the dog.

Dog Food
by Susan Scott
herbalist, homeopath, reiki, bowen therapist
Holistic Animal Therapist Association of Australia No. 0007

In the wild, dogs were scavengers not pretadors. They mainly ate partly decomposed
herbivorous animals, the stomach contents and also droppings of which would provide
most of their requirements for grasses, vegetables and herbs. As they lived in packs
the top dog and breeding bitches would have first pick and what was left would be
shared between the old members of the pack and the young pups, this would be
mainly bones, a very important ingredient in their diet, as bones contain the calcium so
necessary in young healthy animals and then in old age. Also bones develop good
dentition a very important factor for a healthy dog. They would also scavenge for
themselves, grasses, fruit fallen from the trees and semi-decomposed, anything of an
edible nature, consequently their love of garbage bins! The most important factor
about this natural diet was that everything was RAW! Nobody cooked their food for
them or gave them a tin opener.

All of this food was very high in natural enzymes. The dog has an under-active
pancreas, the organ in the body that produces enzymes in the gastro-intestinal tract.
The moment the food is cooked all the enzymes are destroyed, and the dog is unable
to produce the necessary enzymes to break down a cooked diet. The food stays in the
gastro-intestinal tract too long, it putrefies, and causes enormous amount of toxins to
build up in the system. This is the major cause of all the modern day diseases that our
canine friends have including eczema, arthritis, diabetes, pancreatitis, kidney disease,
heart disease, cancer ect. In fact, the same diseases found in modern man. Once
preservatives are added to this process, it becomes virtually imposible for dog to
digest.

So to return your dog to the type of health that nature intended or to allow him to grow
up fit and healthy, the following guidelines will work wonders:

1. Your dog must not under any circumstances receive any more processed food.
That is no more canned, dry semi-moist food prepared fod dogs. NO MORE EVER (and
no cat food either). No food must be fed that has the following substances in it. Added
salt, sugar, preservatives, colourings, and flavourings. In fact, you must not feed to
your dog food to which any foreign chemical substances have been added.

2. It is recommended that you do not feed any grains to your dog. All grains have a
natural enzyme inhibiting coating (to prevent them from sprouting the moment they
touch the ground). They also need to be cooked, which makes it virtually impossible for
a dog to digest. Even rolled grains without any further cooking have virtually been
cooked in the rolling process. Grains are very heating, and the only time a dog would
have eaten grains in the wild would have been when they had passed through another
animal's digestive tract, and then only in the late autumn or winter.

3. All food fed to your dog must be fresh, whole and RAW. Basicly that means fresh
row meat and vegetables and fruit. The most important word here is RAW. The only
exeption to this rule is that any sheep's liver fed to your dog must be cooked. The
sheep carries the hydatid tapeworm, which can be carried on to dog's and thence
humans. Consequently this must be cooked. (Chicken livers and calf's liver can be fed
RAW.)

4. The type of meats that can be fed to your dog are as follows:

a) Chicken fed whole and row so long as your dog has enough teeth to deal
with the bones. (Note: in my experience with many thousands of dogs over a twenty-
year period the only chicken bones that have caused problems were cooked).

b) Mutton - if your dog is lean and has plenty of exercise then areas like the
breast and necks can be given, but if your dog is ovrweight then less fatty cuts would
be prefelable ie. shank.

c) Rabbit - fed whole and RAW.

d) Fish - boneless types of fish can be fed row, if there is a risk of small bones
the fish should be lightly steamed and the bones removed, then mixed with plenty of
row food.

e) Offal such as hearts, tripe, kidneys, chicken or calf's liver can be all fed RAW.
Sheep's liver (lamb's fry) must be cooked. Boil, and use stock to mix with vegetables.
Add small amount of liver.

f) It is not recommended to feed to much beef as this can be taxing on the
kidneys. Kangaroo meat and beef (buffalo) from the pet shop has 3 times the amount
of preservatives added than any meat bought in the butchers shop. It is therefore not
recommended.

g) Always feed your dog meat with bones left in it, and do not feed bones that
have had all the meat removed. The only time I have experienced dogs with bones
stuck in their throats was after eating butcher's bones from which all the meat has
been removed.

5. You may feed your dog ANY type of fruit and vegetables (in fact the greater the
variety the better) with the following exeptions. No citrus fruit, no onion and no
vegetables from the deadly nightshade group, that is no potato, tomato, capsicum or
egg-plant, this is especially important if your dog has arthritis or eczema. Fruit and
vegetables must eventually constitute 50% of the diet. They must be very finely
grated, i.e. pulped up in a food processor, or the pulp from the juicer is a deal. You
drink the juice and feed your dog the pulp! We are trying to recreate the type of
consistency found in the stomach contents of an harbivorous animal.
Apple, carrot, celery, beetroot and parsley is a good mixture to start with, broccoli,
cauliflower, zucchini, pumpkin, sweet potato can all be used. Fruits such as pears, paw-
paw, (including about 1/2 teaspoon of the seed which has the highest content of
natural enzyme of any vegetable), and virtually any other fruit or vegetable that your
dog fancies. Exept the "windy" vegetables like cabbage, peas and beans, especially if
he has been on a cooked diet. Garlic and any other fresh herbs that you have available
would be an excellent addition.

6. It is not recommended that you feed your dog too many dairy products especially
the processed variety. Cottage cheese or ricotta can provide variety to his diet. You
may feed the occasional egg (1/2 a day) if he does not have cholesterol or heart
disease. Acidophilus yoghurt is an excellent ingriedient as the acidophilus is one of the
major bacteria in the stomach and is easy to digest. However, it should be fat-free.
Jalna Skim Milk (Green label) is an excellent variety.

7. The following additives should be given daily: kelp powder, garlic, Brewers yeast,
add Cod Liver or Flaxseed oil, Psyllium hulls, Nettle tea, Apple Cider vinegar, and
Slippery Elm powder. All of these items, if not available in the supermarket, are
available from health food shops. A small dog (i.e. Toys or Terriers) should be given a
1/2 teaspoon of each of the additives daily. A medium sized dog (i.e. Kelpie) - 1
teaspoon on food daily, and larger breeds 1-2 teaspoons daily.
If your dog has been on a cooked diet, then he should be introduced to raw food
gradually. Start by lightly steaming boneless chicken and combining with the vegetable
pulp, yoghurt and slippery elm powder. Gradually decrease cooking time until
eventually just pour boilimg water over the raw meat. The highest concentration of
bacteria is on the surface of the meat and by this method you are producing a diet
very low in bacteria but very high in nutrition. This will cleanse the dog's digestive
system without causing any further toxic build-up. This process should be spread over
a 2-3 weeks. After this time, start to feed the dog raw meat, preferebly chicken necks
that have had all the fat and skin removed. The ideal is to feed him the yoghurt and
vegetable with some of the additives mixed into it first. Wait about 10 minutes, and
then let him have his piece of meat on the bone. With this procedure, his digestive
juices will be activated with the enzyme-rich pulped fruit and vegetables, and by the
time he gets the raw meat his digestive processes will be functioning and he will not
have any problems digesting his food. Food that is well digested does not cause any
toxicity and this is the first step to good health for your dog.

Kinda, like with us humans, dogs and cats will thrive if they eat what's natural to them.

Hope it helps.
 
I have four cats, three 7 years old, one 17. All of them had been eating commercial cat kibbles all of their lives. I noticed more and more that they were spitting up their food, and also that two had been losing weight and all of them had dull coats.

When the pet food scare came about last year, I start reading up on cat nutrition. I got the Pitcairn book which was a real eye-opener. Although we haven't made it all the way to raw food, I switched to an expensive, all meat dry food and already the difference is amazing.

The two skinnies have put on weight, the vomiting has stopped and the glossy fur is unbelievable. The orange long-hair went from looking like an old bathmat to gorgeous silky. The scrawny little black one is now plump and glossy, too. Pudgy has lost the bowling-ball belly. The grumpy 17 year old is still grumpy and didn't like the new food, but she adores cooked chicken and chicken livers. Fortunately, the book told about the importance of taurine, and I've been adding in taurine powder from the health food store to the cooked food. I've also been adding brewers yeast. Gradually, the other cats are showing some interest in the homemade food, too.

There is one thing that has been puzzling me. Having read the information in Diet and Health about magnesium requirements for humans, I have been wondering if cats need supplements, also. It appears that most commercial cat food has as little magnesium as possible due to a link with urinary tract problems, but there is some indication that there may be other factors. Dr. Pitcairn recommends bone meal powder for its calcium but without adequate magnesium, I wonder if the calcium is absorbed. Considering how important magnesium is for our health, does anyone know if cats need more than they are getting?
 
Masamune said:
My parents do have a lot of fleas at their house.

A serious flea infestation can cause ALL the symptoms you have described. Some animals will react more severely than others....but fleas can kill a pet over time. They carry a wide variety of diseases, can cause serious anemia, hair loss, eye infections, etc. etc.

Good food is certainly essential, but the fleas have got to be eliminated if you want the animals health to improve.
 
Hi Masamune,

With 12 cats and 2 dogs with different symptoms, it will be difficult to give specific suggestions. But as some have mentioned I feel there are 3 areas that should be explored.

1. Environment
2. Nutrition
3. Medicine

As Guardian has suggested the flea problem should be addressed for reasons stated. Ear mites, bacterial infections, ticks, worms etc. can also cause sickness and skin related problems. The allowance of a continuing flea problem suggests that their environment may not be very hygienic. That is a lot of pets to keep up with and critters can bounce around from pet to pet and area to area. (A prior friend had to flea bomb his entire house to cleanse his pets environment.) Treat one without addressing the bigger picture and the critters will rotate to the next. Old toys, blankets, sleeping pads can become infested and should be periodically thrown out or at least be sterilized. Carpets also need to be addressed. Separation of the sick animal while being treated can also help.

JH
 
hi all, i would like to ask for some advice for treatment of rheumatism in dogs. Here in the city where i live there are just three vets, and i have had bad experiences with each of them, so for that reason i don´t trust so much in their skills, anyway i think i gotta visit them inmediately.

My dog, a german sheperd of 9 years old ( an advanced age for a dog) has been ill lately, two or three moths ago started to weaken, certainly he´s an old dog but not too old i think to be in such a bad state. He has trouble to move his hind legs, and suffers from incontinence, and his health in general has being degenerating, wich seriously is awful sad to see. In all of his life the dog never had a serious disease and i only carried him to the vet for his vaccines (maybe this could affectted him in a long term?).

I´ve been doing some searchin on the the web, and from what i found it seems he has rheumatism and this has no cure since is a degenerative desease, in some sites especialist recommend some supplements, and a medicine called artoflex, i´m gonna try it. But my worry is if this is the best for him and if he could have a real improvement for the rest of his life, i really don´t want him to suffer but neither to prolong his suffering. The idea of have to sacrifice him is horrible, breaks my heart and makes me feel like trash. I could never do this to my beloved pal, but to see him as he looks now it´s incredible painful too. I don´t know what to do, i feel very sad.

Thanks in advanced and excuse for the outburst.
 
Hi Tykes, I understand how enormously painful it is to consider putting an animal down who is suffering. The most I can say is that I think that no animal deserves to suffer and linger on in pain - ever. In fact, it is often, if not always, the most kind thing to put an animal down who has no chance of recovery and who is suffering.

If I were the animal, I would certainly appreciate my 'human' loving me enough to put their own suffering aside to end mine. Just my take on it, though, and I've had to make this painful decision far too many times in this life.
 
anart said:
Hi Tykes, I understand how enormously painful it is to consider putting an animal down who is suffering. The most I can say is that I think that no animal deserves to suffer and linger on in pain - ever. In fact, it is often, if not always, the most kind thing to put an animal down who has no chance of recovery and who is suffering.

If I were the animal, I would certainly appreciate my 'human' loving me enough to put their own suffering aside to end mine. Just my take on it, though, and I've had to make this painful decision far too many times in this life.

Thanks anart, i appreciate it so much.

Frankly i feel devastated right now, but what you say though disheartening, i think is the most sensible thing to do. I had not seen it that way, i mean my responsability as "his human" but of course i´m willing to put my own suffering aside and doing the last good thing for him. Today i spent my time beside him and i started to feel his departure, for moments i felt very happy remembering good memories, though suddenly the idea of lose my friend put me down. I think it´s normal. Now i just hope he could do a nice transition to the other side. I love him.

Thank you very very much.
 
Hi Tykes -- Just wanted to say I'm sorry you are going through this. It is a painful situation when you are facing your 2D friend's imminent death, and any sadness you feel is very normal. I hope that both of you make the transition as smoothly as possible when the time has come, and although it's very sad, do try to take some comfort in knowing that you are saving your friend from more pain. Take care.
 
Shijing said:
Hi Tykes -- Just wanted to say I'm sorry you are going through this. It is a painful situation when you are facing your 2D friend's imminent death, and any sadness you feel is very normal. I hope that both of you make the transition as smoothly as possible when the time has come, and although it's very sad, do try to take some comfort in knowing that you are saving your friend from more pain. Take care.

Thank you Shijing, i hope that too.

As a curiousity, the next thursday 17th, he would reach the age of 10 years.
 
Tykes said:
[Frankly i feel devastated right now, but what you say though disheartening, i think is the most sensible thing to do. I had not seen it that way, i mean my responsability as "his human" but of course i´m willing to put my own suffering aside and doing the last good thing for him. Today i spent my time beside him and i started to feel his departure, for moments i felt very happy remembering good memories, though suddenly the idea of lose my friend put me down. I think it´s normal. Now i just hope he could do a nice transition to the other side. I love him.

Thank you very very much.

I am really sorry for you and your lovely 2d friend.

Take the time to tell your friend how much you loved and learnt with him. Take the time to tell him good bye and be gentle with you. :flowers:
 
Tykes, I am sorry of this pain that you are having to go through.

I agree with anart 100%. How selfish is it of us to want to keep our beloved 2D friends here just to ease our own suffering, while they continue to suffer? Yes, we have fond memories of them running and playing and listening to us and our troubles. But that is in the past and they, as they become older and start to suffer, can no long run and play. But by letting them go, their spirit can leave the pain and suffering behind and can soar to new heights.

And as Shijing said, tell him how great a companion he is, how much you enjoyed his company, how he will always have a place in your heart and then wish him godspeed on his next adventure.

{{{Hugs}}}
 
Tykes said:
hi all, i would like to ask for some advice for treatment of rheumatism in dogs. Here in the city where i live there are just three vets, and i have had bad experiences with each of them, so for that reason i don´t trust so much in their skills, anyway i think i gotta visit them inmediately.


Thanks in advanced and excuse for the outburst.

I've had some luck using Colloidal Silver with my Weimaraner/lab mix, I make a homemade brew and mix it with chicken broth to get her to take it. I use about one tablespoon when she gets stiff and creaky. She's 9 years old and has had problems since she was 9 months. She has knee dysplaysia. If you do a search you'll see that some say it helps with rheumatism.
http://www.colloidalsilveraustralia.com/tag/colloidal-silver-for-dogs/page/5/

I had to put one of mine down April 3rd. It never gets any easier. I cried as hard this time as I did the first time. One of the things that was so awful this time, is that she was always so happy. Happiest rescue dog I've ever had I think. She wagged her head and tail at the same time, every time she saw you, even though she could barely walk anymore.

Good luck.
 
Incognito said:
I had to put one of mine down April 3rd. It never gets any easier. I cried as hard this time as I did the first time. One of the things that was so awful this time, is that she was always so happy. Happiest rescue dog I've ever had I think. She wagged her head and tail at the same time, every time she saw you, even though she could barely walk anymore.

So sorry for you and you 2d friend. Those are very difficult moments. :flowers:

May she rest in peace and take the time for her next adventure.
 
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